¡Te Quiero, Brigadeiro!
A sweet treat by The Smithsonian's National Museum of the American Latino & my Brigadeiro recipe
Remember the Trader Joe's brigadeiro controversy (I prefer to call it a fiasco) a few months ago? Instead of recognizing its Brazilian roots, Trader Joe's mistakenly attributed our treasured sweet treat to Portugal.
The mix-up made by my favorite grocery chain (though I've forgiven them by now) in misidentifying the cultural origin of Brazil's beloved brigadeiro wasn't merely a misstep; it was a significant stumble to the sense of cultural identity that brigadeiro represents for Brazilians. It left a bitter taste when the praise of our creation was defaulted to the colonizers.
Trader Joe's took a turn to address the whole thing by adding a charming story to their website. They acknowledged that while their brigadeiros are crafted in Portugal, brigadeiros in general are undeniably Brazil's national truffle.
Good enough for me, but the nature of these food identity inconveniences still nags at me. And how often they happen! My opinion is that the representation of our food culture beyond Brazil is already quite limited, so ensuring accuracy becomes crucial. When profiting from it, the least one can do is get it right.
However inconvenient these hiccups may be, they are also part of the reason why I have the opportunity to introduce, explain, and explore the flavors of my world through my job. So, the essence of my work here is to transform it into something meaningful. Delicious, too.
So, when an opportunity too tempting (and surprisingly connected!) to resist came my way, I couldn't say yes fast enough. The National Museum of the American Latino reached out to me for a panel discussion in Washington DC with the sweet theme of—you guessed it—brigadeiros. It's like going from stirring the pot to cook my brigadeiros to now stirring the pot to talk about them. We need sprinkles for this!
¡Te Quiero, Brigadeiro! a delicious culinary program that intertwines the language of love with the art of confectionery. Skilled chefs, Sandra A. Gutierrez, Jaíne Mackievicz, Mariana Vieira of Brigadeiro NYC, and Nicole Leiva of Dulceology Bakery will lead you through a harmonious blend of flavors and languages, creating decadent Valentine's Day treats that speak to the heart.
For this cook, there's no greater honor than receiving this invitation. For this Brazilian, there's no more ambitious aspiration than embracing this opportunity for representation.
And if I can add another layer to this brigadeiro trifle, we also have the unique dynamic of Brazilian representation within the broader Latino community. The intricacies emerge from our distinctive blend of cultures, fostering a sense of identity that, occasionally, feels distinct from the Latino narrative. I guess language, history, and cultural influences contribute to this nuanced perspective. And I'm deeply committed to playing my part in changing this.
I'm well aware that food is the pathway to accomplish it, and events like this only confirm that we're moving in the right direction.
In guiding the discussion, we are fortunate to have Sandra Gutierrez—an acclaimed food journalist, cookbook author, and a real role model to me. Her latest book, "Latinísimo," boasting more than three hundred recipes, firmly establishes her authority in Latin American food culture, history, and ingredients. And here's a beautiful article in The New York Times about Sandra's work that I think you should read.
I'm overjoyed to have the chance to express and share my thoughts from such a privileged position. (Between you and me, I'm also terrified, but let's keep that on the down low).
If you are in DC, unfortunately, tickets sold out much faster than anticipated. However, after the event, there will be a fun meet-and-greet where Sandra will be signing books, people will be sampling brigadeiros, and I'll be offering hugs—believe it or not, for free. We will be at the Molina Gallery in The National Museum of American History. To be more precise, it's right across from Julia Child's kitchen. ❤️
If you are not in DC, the event will be recorded, and I'll make a link available later here.
*Update: You can watch it here!
Oh, before I go!
Just in case you know someone who works at Trader Joe's involved in product development, I'll leave my brigadeiro recipe here.
Merci,
Jaíne’s Brigadeiro
Makes approximately 30 (or 25 if, like me, your self-control wavers in their irresistible presence).
These are as traditional as brigadeiros can get and I believe that's where you should start. But let me tell you about a cherished and playful tradition from my childhood involving indulging in Brigadeiro de Colher—eaten straight from a shared plate with spoons while it was still warm and lighter, more caramel-like. Often, these moments were shared with my cousins during sleepovers, and those plates of warm brigadeiro hold some of my sweetest memories of growing up in Brazil. Even now, I continue this tradition by preparing a batch and enjoying it this way with my husband on nostalgic Sundays, or simply while immersed in a good book, relishing the joy all to myself. I'm certain you would love my childhood version too.
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon salted butter
1/2 cup dark chocolate (72% cacao), chips, or chopped
3 tablespoons cocoa powder
Lots of fun sprinkles!
1. In a medium saucepan, pour the sweetened condensed milk, add the butter, dark chocolate, and cocoa powder. Stir everything with a spatula over low heat (induction 3) to warm and fully incorporate.
2. Continue stirring with a spatula for about 8 to 10 minutes and now switch to medium heat (induction 5).
*If you notice the brigadeiro becoming too bubbly and lumpy, turn off the heat. Stir vigorously for about two minutes, then resume cooking over low heat. My advice here is: it is of utmost importance to pay attention to heat management throughout the process.
3. Observe how the consistency changes from liquidy to a denser, caramel-like texture, to fudgy. After 10 to 12 minutes, test the readiness by running a spatula through it. It should leave a path, indicating that it's cooked.
4. Once cooked, switch from the spatula to a whisk and whisk vigorously for about 5 minutes or until the mixture cools down a bit and becomes smooth. Minor lumps are acceptable as they will disappear eventually.
5. Pour the smooth mixture onto a shallow plate, wrap it in cling film, and let it cool in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight.
6. Sprinkle the sprinkles into a medium bowl and take the brigadeiro plate out of the fridge. Consider lightly buttering your hands to prevent sticking as you roll them.
7. Using a tablespoon (or teaspoon if you’d prefer them on the smaller side), scoop out portions, roll the brigadeiros between your hands, and transfer them to the bowl of sprinkles, allowing them to dance there as they get dressed.
8. Display them on a beautiful cake platter and serve. Promise me you’ll try to leave some to your guests.
If you don’t have sprinkles, you can roll them in coconut flakes, crushed nuts such as pistachios, peanuts, or cashews, or even cocoa powder.
They keep well in the fridge for up to 5 days and at room temperature for up to 2 days.
We are so excited to make Brigadeiros. Thank you for providing this!