Pissaladière perfected
Pissaladière perfected
The magic of caramelized onions, anchovies & really good olives
The first time I tried Pissaladière was, of course, in France—its birthplace—during a stage I completed at Le Cordon Bleu Café in Paris as part of my culinary training. For a few weeks, I worked part-time at the café, and every Wednesday, we prepared this savory tart to be served at room temperature—or cold, which I personally prefer—on Thursdays.
My role was to caramelize the onions—just enough to start them off, as they would finish browning in the oven—and assemble the tarts, which, like my own version, were made with puff pastry instead of the traditional pizza-like dough.
Traditional Pissaladière dough resembles bread dough with a soft, slightly chewy texture. The combination of flour, yeast, water, and olive oil creates a sturdy base that holds up well under the weight of the toppings while maintaining a rustic, robust presence without looking overly refined or precise. I try to achieve the same look with puff pastry.
Chef Henry, in command, would say that there was no secret to a stellar Pissaladière; rather, it relied on quality-packed ingredients: onions, anchovies, and, most importantly, black olives. There’s no real Pissaladière without one of these three, and it’s even less good if the quality of these ingredients is subpar.
David Lebovitz, a big connoisseur of French home cooking, says in his book My Paris Kitchen that Pissaladière should be crisp and very thin, not thick and bready, to which I couldn't agree more.
Back in that French kitchen, I loved the meditative process of arranging the crisscrossed anchovies and then decorating in between with the olives. When I brought a slice or two to the Hausmannian building I used to call home, to enjoy alongside a glass of Sancerre after a long day of cooking, I loved even more how this tart delivered such satisfyingly bold, savory flavors.
Nowadays, this is my go-to appetizer for holiday gatherings. Its practicality shines through, as it can be made ahead of time and served at room temperature or cold (you already know my preference)—ideal for entertaining without the last-minute rush. It’s the kind of dish that impresses your guests while allowing you to spend more time enjoying their company, especially since two of its main ingredients are so easy to reach in the pantry. Small victories (and between us, so Martha Stewart of me 😁).
With sweet caramelized onions and salty anchovies, Pissaladière can be quite intense, which is why I find that mild California Ripe Olives work beautifully in this recipe. Their mellow, fruity flavor adds balance, avoiding the overly salty edge that can come with traditional Niçoise olives, for example; they truly are the perfect versatile fit.
California Ripe Olives have a mild, slightly nutty flavor because of the way they’re processed. Instead of curing olives in brine for a long time, as is common in Mediterranean countries, California olives go through a unique lye-cured process that removes bitterness (olives straight off of the tree are too bitter to eat) more quickly and evenly. This approach keeps the olives' taste mild, with a clean, almost buttery flavor, instead of developing the sharp, tangy, or briny notes found in brine-cured olives.
Plus, using puff pastry not only makes this version quicker to prepare but also gives it that wonderfully flaky, buttery base, transforming the tart into a more, let's say, indulgent meal. When baked, the pastry puffs up to create a light, airy texture that perfectly contrasts with the rich, savory toppings. And what's not to love about puff pastry?
Served as an appetizer or with a crisp, zesty green salad on the side, I want this recipe to bring you a little taste of my time in France, now improved with a touch of California. So, whether you’re hosting and would like to add elegance to your holiday table or simply want to indulge in delicious bites (hopefully you’ll follow my lead and have it cold), I’m convinced this Pissaladière, featuring California Ripe Olives, is sure to be a hit.
Pissaladière
Serves 4 as an appetizer or starter, or 2 as a light meal
A joy to prepare, this savory tart invites you into an almost meditative process of caramelizing onions and artfully arranging anchovies and olives on puff pastry. It’s my go-to appetizer for holiday celebrations, thanks to its practicality; this dish can be made ahead of time and served cold or at room temperature, making it ideal for entertaining. The mild California Ripe Olives complement the sweet caramelized onions and salty anchovies, resulting in an incredibly flavorful tart that pairs beautifully with a variety of wines, offering effortless options for your gathering.
Thank you, California Ripe Olives, for sponsoring this recipe!
2 large Spanish onions, thinly sliced
3 tbsp salted butter
1 tsp Better than Bouillon, preferably beef or mushroom (optional)
1 sheet all-butter puff pastry (about 12.5 x 10 inches)
My favorite all-butter store-bought puff pastry is Trader Joe's1 (2 oz) can anchovy whole fillets, packed in pure olive oil, drained
¼ cup black California Ripe Olives, about 15 whole olives
Salt and pepper to taste
Melt the butter in a medium-heavy-bottom pan over medium heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, and cook slowly for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are soft and golden brown. Stir in Better than Bouillon, if using, with a splash of water to deglaze the pan, and cook for about 5 more minutes, adding extra depth to the onions. Set aside to cool.
Note: The onions on a Pissaladière are typically a rich golden brown to light caramel color. They’re slowly caramelized until they’re sweet and tender, but not dark brown or deeply caramelized, as they continue to cook and develop flavor in the oven.
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Lay the all-butter puff pastry on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Using a sharp knife, score a shallow border about ½ inch from the edges to create a frame. Be careful not to cut all the way through the pastry; this border will help the edges puff up while the center stays flat.
Spread the caramelized onions evenly over the puff pastry, keeping the border intact. Arrange the drained anchovy fillets in a crisscross pattern on top of the onions. Scatter the drained black California ripe olives between the anchovies, and add freshly cracked black pepper, if you'd like.
Optionally, place your assembled tart in the freezer for about 10 minutes to chill the butter. This will help ensure that the pastry rises beautifully and achieves a flaky texture when baked.
Bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, until the puff pastry is golden and crispy around the edges. Keep an eye on the tart in the last few minutes to avoid over-browning.
Slice into squares and serve. This dish can be enjoyed warm, at room temperature, or even cold.
Store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. To reheat, place the slices in a 350°F (175°C) oven for about 5-7 minutes until warmed through and the pastry is crisp again. Avoid microwaving, as it can make the puff pastry soggy.
Eu amo Pissaladière!!!!!