A long-promised recipe
Packed with spring flavors from Ukraine.
I shared a list of Spring-favorites, Ukrainian-flavored cookbooks in late March. One of the books I loved reading (and cooking from) the most was Anna Voloshyna's Budmo! I find myself endlessly admiring the visuals and the compelling storytelling Anna built into this book. It really is mouthwatering.
I also recall promising you a special recipe from Anna, and I hope you don't think I forgot (although you probably do). I just tend to be fashionably late to the party, as Brazilians are notorious for being tardy to appointments (and with recipes). But rest assured, I'm working on improving my punctuality (and my recipe-sharing skills).
The recipe Anna was kind enough to share with us is her delectable Green Borshch.
While I did not have a chance to cook Anna's Green Borshch yet (still trying to find sorrel in Southern California - please send help!), I have cooked some other recipes from Budmo! The first one on the list was this most fascinating recipe from Budmo!'s first chapter: Starters, Salads, and Spreads.
While my kitchen lacked some of the ingredients, this is such a straightforward — and adaptable, if I may — recipe that I had no trouble achieving great results. I made it for lunch alongside a robust leafy salad and skipped the dressing, using the mussels’ pickling juice as my seasoning.
The leftovers, no more than half a cup, turned into a delectable apéro in the afternoon, scooped out from a deli container with pieces of fresh baguette Doug had just brough home. Between my tweezing fingers, just enough bread to soak all those sweet and spicy pickled juices. Between my other fingers, a cold glass of Chablis.
Anna tells in the book that she grew up near the Black Sea and that’s why she loves cooking all types of clams, mussels, and other sea creatures. I, on the other hand, couldn't have grown up farther from the sea. It wasn't until I was 15 and traveling with my parents to the Northeast coast of Brazil for a tropical vacation that I got to experience that oceanic breeze.
I remember sitting outdoors under palm trees at a little restaurant in the village where we were staying. My dad ordered a plate of Mussels Escabeche for me to try for the first time. The wind was blowing lightly, and we sat in the striped shadow of the palm trees. Underneath the table, I buried my feet in the fine sand.
The plate that arrived looked very similar to Anna's plate of pickled mussels. They were bright orange, and one could smell the richness of the mussels, pan-fried in oil, tempered by the freshness of finely chopped onions and cilantro, and the tang of a plethora of white wine vinegar.
Those mussels were served as an appetizer, meant to be nibbled alongside a tall glass of beer. I wondered how they would taste on top of a plate of al dente spaghetti, which I might try now with Anna's recipe. My dad even suggested adding halved steamed new potatoes to turn it into a main dish.
Those mussels, to me, were a perfect introduction to the taste of the sea. Anna's recipe today brought those memories back to me.
Now, I'm curious to make her Green Borshch and try to picture to where the first spoonful will take me.
Obrigada, Anna! We're so lucky to be able to taste stories through your food.
I can't wait to see what you'll cook from Budmo!
Anna Voloshyna's Green Borshch
Green Borshch has a rich history in Ukrainian cuisine. It is believed to have originated in the southern regions of Ukraine (the place where I’m coming from), where the climate is warm and conducive to growing a variety of green vegetables and herbs. The dish has since spread throughout the country and has become a staple of traditional Ukrainian cuisine. I love making it with luscious and tangy sorrel that gives borshch its signature sour flavor and makes every slurp taste like spring.
Ingredients
1 pound bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
2 large yellow onions 1 bay leaf
Salt and black pepper 8 cups water
12 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon sunflower oil
2 medium carrots, peeled and shredded
1/3 cup heavy cream
6 ounces baby spinach, roughly chopped
3 ounces sorrel, roughly chopped
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill and flat-leaf parsley, in equal parts
1/4 cup sour cream, for serving
3 semisoft-boiled eggs, peeled and halved (see Note)
In a medium-large pot, combine the chicken thighs, one of the whole onions, the bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt, and the water, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook uncovered, skimming off any foam and impurities from the surface as they develop, until the chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes.
Remove the chicken and onion from the pot. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, slice the meat off the bones, remove the skin, and cut the meat into bite-size pieces. Discard the skin, bones, and whole onion, and return the meat to the pot. Add the potatoes, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook until the potatoes are easily pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, finely dice the remaining onion. In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 7 minutes.
Transfer the onion-carrot mixture to the soup and simmer for
about 3 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the cream, spinach, and sorrel, bring to a simmer, and cook until the greens are wilted, about 2 minutes . Add the chopped eggs, season to taste with salt and pepper, and remove from the heat. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
Ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish each serving with some of the dill and parsley, a dollop of sour cream, and an egg half, and serve right away.
Note: To cook the semisoft-boiled eggs, bring a medium saucepan filled with water to a boil. Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice-cold water. Lower the eggs into the boiling water, and cook for 61/2 minutes. Scoop out the eggs and immerse them in the ice-cold water. Then peel them and cut in half lengthwise.
I'd love to see any photos if you make Anna's borsch. And if you know where to find abundant sorrel in Sourthern California, please let me know.
Merci,